Eggplant Blossom (Flickr: Rand_G)

The eggplants in the small corner patch of the front yard have begun to put out purple and yellow flowers, hanging down like little lanterns. In a few weeks we’ll have fresh eggplants. The beans I planted in May have provided us with a handful a week of sweet, crunchy string beans. The kale was eaten up by caterpillars and otherwise fared poorly in the heat and humidity of midsummer, but the basil thrived. I even have little knuckles of gingerroot putting up bright green shoots in a pot on the porch. It’s not difficult to grow things, and some come up on their own — I eat plenty of foraged purslane and milkweed pods from around the neighborhood. I don’t have much space to grow these things, but I use what I have to grow my own organic food that couldn’t be more local.

So much of the food movement — whether framed in terms of organics, or local food, or sustainably raised, or grass-fed — is simply out of reach for the many Americans living in places where basic access to real food is itself a challenge, much less affordable healthy food. High quality food is not “more expensive,” but low quality, highly processed, industrially produced and government subsidized foods give us the false impression that food should be cheap. As a result, the wider food movement is sometimes critiqued for being elitist. Though I disagree, I do recognize that what I have access to is not what all Americans have access to. With my farm trips and meat CSA and preference for pesticide and GMO-free foods, I worry that when I write about food the only people who hear me are those who can afford to do the same.

Food justice is about wider principles, principles that I believe are firmly rooted in an Islamic ethics that makes it obligatory for Muslims to care for the poor. How can we as a community ensure that the members of our community (and here I mean our local communities, the people we see at the mosque or in our neighborhoods) have access not just to food — real food, meals with ingredients we can pronounce, things our grandmothers would recognize as food — but to food that is wholesome and ethically sound with regard to the lives of animals, laborers and the environment?

I have visited a variety of mosques in the United States that sit on a piece of land with sufficient space to grow food (although, the one closest to me is surrounded by a parking lot). What would it take to transform those spaces into gardens? How does the shift happen whereby a community can see an empty lot and imagine spaces of abundance? How do we take responsibility for making those spaces a reality? How do we reimagine the roll we play in our community, where charity can be conceived of as a gift that turns our time and energy into fresh food?

Here’s what I imagine. The plants are started in early spring. Children get to poke their fingers into the trays of soil and drop a seed in. When they return the following Friday they see the first bit of green pushing upwards, still wearing the seed like a little hat. The next week, the plant is sprouting tiny leaves. It’s a miracle, and they reflect on how merciful God is in transforming this tiny speck into a living organism. In a few weeks, they plant the seedlings in the ground that has been prepared by the garden volunteers and as the months progress the community watches as the orderly patch of soil becomes a raucous jungle of blossoming greens. After prayers, the volunteers for that day go out to the garden and turn on the hose. They check the plants for bugs and pull up any weeds. They chat and exchange news with one another and passersby before turning off the hose and heading home.

There is garlic, onions, peas, tomatoes, kale, spinach, carrots, squashes and whatever else. When people visit their families back home, whether in Syria or Syracuse, they bring home a few seeds from the peppers they remember from their childhood, or the melons, or the mint, and the garden begins to reflect the diversity of the community itself. In mid-summer the harvest starts. After Friday prayers families receive their basket of fresh greens and vegetables. Maybe some folks get together to fence off a chicken run, or beehives, and so the baskets start to have eggs and honey. Every so often there’s even a fresh chicken. In the back is a compost bin where men and women drop off food scraps before prayers, and in a few years the soil in the garden is rich and dark. At iftar people break their fasts eating food that they’ve grown as a community, only a few yards away.

For those of us with mosques with unused grounds, all we require is the will. The resources are there, provided by groups like the American Community Gardening Association and Urban Harvest. We can partner with local food organizations and growing centers to get started. Surely, members of our communities have experience growing food and can share their knowledge. If not, let’s reach out and connect with local gardeners. Some mosques have already done it, not to mention numerous churches and synagogues, and could share what has and has not worked for them. We can learn from one another, and then feed one another.

While this doesn’t completely address the issue of how to put a better chicken in each pot, it does make for a healthy and wholesome meal — and honestly, we could stand to eat less meat. I also want to emphasize that it’s not just how we vote with our dollars, by spending money on products that reflect our ethical leanings. It’s far more important to consider how we spend our time and energy, and how that capital goes into supporting one another in community. How can we move forward from an idea like this to next summer’s bounty?

This article originally appeared in The Huffington Post.

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3 Responses to Feeding the Muslim Community

  1. Riaz Syed says:

    Salams
    I think your main goal is to follow and enable muslims to follow the teachings of Quran i.e. eating halal and wholesome food (halal and tayyib)and you are thinking about how to achieve food justice. Alhamdulillah this is a pure thought.

    I like your idea, however utopian it may sound (all great things start from an idea), but it is possible. However, it may not work for all communities because of their situation and priorities.
    Many communities are still struggling.

    Like you suggest a Masjid CSA is possible but it requires leadership, organization, collaboration, community education, community support. However, making food affordable (food justice) is the key criteria that will judge if the project passes or fails.It has to be proved first that food produced will be affordable.

    Another option that i thought about which came from your idea is how about doing a distributed approach to growing food instead of a centralized CSA approach.What I mean is that many members grow food individually using their backyards and then pool together and sell food to the Masjid members at a reasonable price

    Such ideas need to be discussed and refined and IA some good way may emerge from this discussion.

    thanks for your article.

    • beyondhalal says:

      Wa salaam Riaz,

      Thank you for your comment–it’s great to hear you thinking through some of the things that I wrote. Food justice is an ideal, but an ideal that people are working towards all across the country, from Los Angeles to Detroit to New Orleans to Brooklyn. If it sounds utopian, then I like to think that by reaching for the moon I’ll land somewhere in the stars, insh’Allah. Since posting this article, I’ve heard back from a group of Muslims in Michigan who say that they’ve been inspired to start their own garden, and a minister here in Boston who wants to adapt this idea to his church to feed the visitors to their soup kitchen. Even if we can just grow a few things, the very act of growing *something* is revolutionary for so many people who have only ever gotten their food plastic wrapped from a supermarket.

      Practically, yes, both community gardens and CSA’s require strong team leadership, and insh’Allah people can find that in themselves and in their communities. I think it’s possible!

      Also, it’s equally about process as it is about product. Yes, we definitely want more people to have access to healthy, tayyeb foods. But gardening together has so, so many other benefits, from health and relaxation to community building to improving neighborhoods. I definitely encourage people to grow their own food in their backyards, and even to donate some or all of it to a local food pantry, but coming together to garden does something special for us.

      Do you garden or could you see yourself starting a garden?

      Thanks again and salaams!

  2. Riaz Syed says:

    Salaam
    Thanks for your article. I was thinking of putting a lawn in my backyard. Now it makes me think, Insha Allah next summer, instead I could just use that space for a garden instead of the grass. But I may need lot of help from someone who knows the stuff.

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